How to Shop for Antique and Vintage Jewelry Like a Pro

With a loupe in hand and knowledge as your guide, you can curate a stunning collection of timeless treasures.

There’s an undeniable allure to antique and vintage jewelry—whether it’s a bold costume necklace from the 1970s or a delicate piece of fine jewelry from the Victorian era. The process of discovering, researching, and finally wearing a unique piece offers a deeply satisfying experience that modern jewelry often can’t replicate.

Unlike contemporary designs, vintage and antique jewelry carries a sense of nostalgia. As Dr. Lori Verderame, Ph.D., an antiques appraiser, explains, “Most people collect vintage jewelry to rekindle memories, like seeing Mom’s cherished earrings on a special night out or borrowing Grandma’s string of pearls for your wedding day.”

There’s also the romantic appeal of untold stories behind these treasures. Suzanne Martinez, co-owner of Lang Antique & Estate Jewelry, shares, “People love the history—the stories of the time the jewelry was made, the individuals who wore it, the gemstones, and the provenance.” Anna Ruzhnikov, Head of Fine and Important Jewels at Sotheby’s New York, echoes this sentiment: “A necklace might have adorned a noteworthy individual, traveled across continents, or commemorated a momentous occasion.”

What Is the Difference Between Vintage and Antique Jewelry?

Amy Roseveare, creator of The Curated Jewelry Box, clarifies the distinction. Vintage jewelry typically refers to pieces that are 50 to 100 years old, while antique jewelry is over a century old. Both categories fall under the broader umbrella of estate jewelry, which simply means pre-owned.

“Vintage and estate jewelry often come at more attractive price points compared to new designs—unless you’re seeking high-end names like Cartier or Bulgari,” Roseveare explains. “Plus, their craftsmanship is usually exceptional. If a piece has endured 75 years of wear, it’s clearly built to last.”

How to Shop for Antique and Vintage Jewelry

Building a collection of vintage jewelry is an exciting journey. These tips will help you shop like an expert:

1. Educate Yourself

Dive into books, explore online resources, and engage with knowledgeable sellers to build your expertise. Dr. Verderame emphasizes the importance of learning about major designers and recognizing maker’s marks—hallmarks that indicate the creator or manufacturer of a piece.

Books remain invaluable in this digital age. Highly recommended titles include World Hallmarks, Volume 1 (a comprehensive guide to European hallmarks from the 19th to 21st centuries) and Understanding Jewellery (a thorough exploration of jewelry periods and styles from the 18th century onward).

Roseveare also advises keeping an open mind about unbranded pieces. “You can find incredible deals on unsigned items. Some of my most beloved pieces—like a 1940s tank bracelet—were affordable simply because they lacked a hallmark,” she says.

2. Connect with Ethical Sellers

Choose sellers with integrity and transparency. Suzanne Martinez suggests looking for sellers who share their vision and mission, provide gemstone and diamond reports, and prioritize educating their customers. Once you find trustworthy sellers, cultivate relationships with them. Roseveare notes, “When dealers understand your style, they’ll often give you sneak peeks of items you’ll love.”

3. Familiarize Yourself with Auctions

Anna Ruzhnikov recommends exploring auctions, where unique pieces and competitive prices abound. “Learn the terminology, attend live auctions, and research past sales to understand value,” she advises. Auctions are a treasure trove for finding items that aren’t readily available at retail.

4. Learn About Materials

Fine jewelry demands a deeper understanding of materials. Stay informed about current gold prices, as they can influence the value of non-branded pieces. Roseveare points out that gold hues vary, especially in vintage jewelry. “Undertones can range from rosy to very yellow, depending on the alloys used in different eras,” she explains.

Additionally, consider gemstone durability. The Mohs Hardness Scale rates stones from 1 to 10, with diamonds, rubies, and sapphires ranking highest. Softer stones, like opals or malachite, require more care, especially in rings that endure daily wear.

5. Inspect Closely

Invest in a jewelry loupe with at least 10x magnification to examine pieces thoroughly. Check for hallmarks, cracks, chips, and the integrity of prongs securing gemstones. Martinez advises looking for signs of repair, such as solder marks or mismatched metal colors, and assessing whether repairs were skillfully executed.

6. Try It On

Jewelry transforms when worn. Attend trade shows or auctions to try on various styles and discover what resonates with you. “Jewelry comes alive on the body,” says Ruzhnikov. “Find pieces that make you feel extraordinary.”

7. Prioritize Quality Over Quantity

Roseveare encourages focusing on quality rather than amassing numerous pieces. “Save for a piece that truly speaks to you. You’ll cherish it far more than several ‘almost-right’ items,” she says.

8. Explore Online Shopping

While shopping in person offers advantages, such as trying on jewelry and inspecting it closely, online platforms like 1stDibs, Ruby Lane, and eBay expand your options. Roseveare enjoys hosting virtual shopping appointments to connect with clients. “Building trust through personal interaction is key,” she shares.

9. Buy What You Love

Above all, let your heart guide your choices. Ruzhnikov advises, “If a piece captivates you, even with imperfections or missing hallmarks, go for it. Every collector has a story of the one that got away.”

Final Thoughts

Shopping for antique and vintage jewelry is an adventure steeped in history, craftsmanship, and emotion. With knowledge, patience, and a discerning eye, you can build a collection that reflects your personal style and tells a story—one timeless piece at a time.

 

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